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SAKE EXCURSIONS IN Diane Merriam Introduction When I first came to Japan in the fall of 1998, I had many different ideas in mind about a topic for my research on Japanese culture. So I am not exactly sure how it first occurred to me to explore Japanese sake. It may have started subconsciously at my welcoming party at the Kanagawa International Association where Mr. Hashimoto, a sake devotee, was eagerly waiting to see if I enjoyed it. My interest may have been peaked by the fact that here was a very popular drink which I had never even tasted. Or it could have been the fact that in novels like Shogun, or Memoirs of a Geisha, people were always drinking sake. At any rate, I knew that it was very strongly identified with Japanese culture. I also knew that almost any subject can be a window through which to examine the culture in more detail. Then one day, one of my students returned from a day trip with a bottle of sake as an "omiyage," and a book entitled Kanagawa no Sake. On another occasion I went to the Sanbo Center near Yamashita Park for some tourist information and happened to find the second floor display of the products of Kanagawa Prefecture. One of the featured products was local sake. There was a map there with the name and location of all the licensed breweries in Kanagawa. I was told about a Kanagawa food show at Takashimiya Department Store that would be held within just a few weeks. Several of my students went with me to this show, and from then on I became a sake taster. I bought miniatures of the representative brands of all the Kanagawa breweries and I tasted several others at the show. So I started my research project with a burning question in mind. What makes for good sake and where can I obtain it? My family and I sometimes have a bottle of wine with dinner at home. But after I tasted this delicious drink, I hoped to be able to serve a bottle of Japanese sake with the meal occasionally instead. Serving sake with western food is a relatively new idea. Even newer still is the concept that different kinds of sake go with different kinds of food. However, brewing and drinking sake is as old as Japanese civilization itself. The rice and water used for this drink are at the very foundation of Japanese culture. And sake has played an important role in the religious, social, political, and economic life of this country since its beginning. And so, I thought it would be a wonderful way to interest others in Japanese culture as well. Diane Merriam History and Significance of Sake Brewing Like all other aspects of Japanese culture, sake brewing can be traced back to the period of the gods. Susano no Mikoto, brother of the sun-goddess Amaterasu, slew the great serpent of Yamata Lake by enticing him to drink from eight vats of freshly brewed sake. Because the serpent became intoxicated, he was able to slay him with a magical sword. So, according to legend, his brewing techniques have been passed down from generation to generation to the present. During the earliest period of sake brewing, the drink was quite different than it is today. Soon after the introduction of rice cultivation, people began to make it. The earliest type of sake was called "kuchikami no sake," or "chewing in the mouth sake." It was produced when people chewed rice and spit it into a bowl where it was acted upon by airborn yeast which transformed it into a kind of rice gruel with a very small percent of alcohol. It was eaten with pinchers or mixed with water and siphoned off through a straw. Enzymes in the saliva had converted the starch into sugar for fermentation. The ancients believed that the gods themselves had created it, since they had no rational explanation for the transformation which they observed. Whenever sake was present, the gods were thought to be present. And whenever people drank sake, they were thought to be imbibing the life force of the gods. From the very beginning, sake played a very important role in the indigenous
Shinto religion. Sake was offered to appease the gods and to ask for their
favor. In the early agricultural society, sake brewing was a ritual that
was performed by community members for every Shinto festival. These rituals,
which usually marked the different stages of the growing season, served
the social function of holding the community together. In some communities
only young virgins could chew the rice, so the brew came to be known as
"beautiful women sake." One of the most interesting developments of this period was the way that sake drinking became adapted to the Japanese seasonal sensitivity, and the Shinto belief that the gods lived in nature. The way to view the cherry blossoms or the moon, for instance, was to pick a beautiful spot under the trees and sip sake. In this way you could become one with nature, and you might be inspired to recite poetry. Today, during the cherry blossom season, many people sit under the trees in Ueno Park, or elsewhere, sipping sake, or sometimes beer, and appreciating the beauty. It is an activity that Japanese people look forward to every year. During the middle ages (1192-1603), sake production shifted to the shrines and temples. During the Kamakura period (1192-1333), a commercial economy began to appear. The descendants of the court sake brewers became independent brewers and associated in guilds under the protection of shrines and temples which held large tracks of rice lands. The monks provided a good source of labor. Soon the rugged samurai were buying sake at the periodic markets held at the shrine gates, and before long commericial drinking establishments were established in Kamakura. It was then not long before the samurai, like the nobility before them, started to pursue sake, women, and song. During the Muromachi period (1333-1573), a new commercial class began to appear. Many independent merchants began to produce sake creating competition between brewers that lead to improved techniques. Connoisseurs began to distinguish between different types of sake. It was discovered that koji spores could be dried and stored for subsequent use. And during the later half of the fifteenth century, brewers began to polish rice. Internal trade, as well as foreign trade with Korea and China, expanded as samurai developed their own sense of connoisseurship, and independent sake brewers started to become influential merchants and money lenders. Brothels and drinking establishments proliferated in Kyoto, and other cities as well. By the end of this period, merchants too had begun to pursue the ideals of connoisseurship. By the end of the sixteenth century, a lot had changed in the sake brewing industry. The "Tamon'in Nikki," a document which gives a detailed account of sake brewing at the Kofukuji temple in Nara, provides an historically important insight. Apparently brewers had been using dried yeast spores, instead of allowing fermentation by airborn yeast, for quite some time. By the year 1569 the process of pastuerization, called "hi-ire" was recorded in this diary; and by 1578, it was recorded that "Morohaku sake" was made from 100% polished, white rice. It might be said that by the end of the sixteenth century, at least some of the best sakes were close to what is now called "seishu" or "refined sake." In the year 1598, Hideyoshi Toyotomi gave one of the most famous cherry-blossom-viewing banquets of all time. (Kondo) It was an elaborate affair that lasted for several days with hundreds of guests and entertainments, picnicking, and carousing. A detailed list was kept of all the sakes that were served. Kikuzake, "chrysanthemum sake" was produced in what is now Kanazawa. The water used contained the fallen petals of chrysanthemum flowers. Of course there was "Morohaku sake" from Nara, and sakes from some large breweries that had developed southeast of Kyoto, called Fushimi. But it was during the Edo period that the sake brewing industry as it is known today began to develop. In order to better maintain their political control of the country, the Tokugawa Shogunate began a system requiring the daimyo to spend every other year in the capital. These daimyo, as well as the now idle samurai, became the basis of the great consumer market which developed there. Although Japan was closed to foreign trade during the Edo era, internal trade expanded and flourished, particularly in the sake brewing industry. Edo became the largest city in the world with a large urban bureaucracy Brewers in the Kansai area wanted to take advantage of the market in Edo. One brewer sent casks of sake on pack horses over the Tokkaido highway. The trip was very difficult and took a long time. But the wealthy daimyo and government workers were willing to pay any price for this delicious sake, which was now made with highly polished rice. Soon many merchants were sending sake to Edo in "taru kaisen" or "cask ships." (A replica of these cask ships can be seen in the Edo/Tokyo Museum.) This form of transportation favored the coastal regions in the production and transportation of sake. This region, called Nada, became the center of the sake brewing industry and is the home of the large breweries today. In Edo, a new kind of merchant appeared, the sake wholesalers, who developed far ranging interests in business and commerce, and who soon became the wealthiest people in the land. So, though the merchants were considered to be the lowest in the class structure (following samurai, farmers, and artisans) they came to play the leading role in the economy. One of the greatest advances in sake brewing techniques began in the early part of the seventeenth century. Until that time, most sake had been produced between the autumnal equinox, when rice was harvested, and the spring equinox, just before planting time. But the most delicious ones were produced during the 100 coldest days of the winter, when the temperature was best for the fermentation process. At that time, some brewers from the Nada region began to limit the sake production to these 100 days, and the Edo connoiseurs loved the results. This method became know as the "kan-zukkuri" method. Brewers from the Nada region gradually adopted the "kan-zukkuri" method between 1789 and 1850, combining it with modern techniques of mass production that allowed them to maintain their output. In 1784 brewers began to use waterwheels to drive the rice polishing machines so that less intensive labor needed to be used. In 1840, it was discovered the "Miyamizu" water, from the Nishinomiya area, had special properties that allowed them to use less water with more highly polished rice to produce a delicious sake at a reasonable price. From that time on, the sake of the Nada region was preeminate, while all others were disparaged as "country sake." Before long samurai and wealthy merchants alike were able to pursue a life of pleasure. This pursuit became associated with the Yoshiwara quarter and the Kabuki Theatre district. These areas were known as the "floating world." The feminine ideal was the geisha who helped set the standard of fashion, beauty, and elegance. The masculine ideal was a man with a wide range of knowledge, a "tsujin" or connoisseur, who could spend a fortune on a night of pleasure. The inns and tea houses of Edo could be visited by only the wealthy few. Food was always served with sake. In the tradition of Sen No Rikkyu, "sakana," as the food served with sake was called, was always aesthetically prepared and served. The "izakaya" were at the bottom of the scale where ordinary townspeople could drink crude sake at a rough table with only salt for "sakana." During the Meiji era, the present structure of the industry was established. At first the major brewers were threatened by the new government which allowed anyone who could afford a license to enter the industry. As a result, many new local breweries were established. But as the Meiji government was also interested in increasing tax revenue, the increased tax rates again played into the hands of the large breweries who were in a better position to afford them. The major breweries of Nada and Fushimi quickly adopted the latest in western technology to their industry, and their breweries soon looked like modern factories instead of traditional Edo period "kura." They also used advertising and modern distribution methods to expand their market throughout the nation. In addition, the Meiji government took an active interest in the industry.
In 1904, the National Research Institute of Brewing was established under
the jurisdiction of the Treasury Ministry. And in 1907, the Treasury Ministry
cooperated with the Japan Sake Brewers Association to sponsor the first
National New Sake Competition, a competition that has strongly influenced
the industry ever since. The next major change in the sake industry occured as a result of WWII. The cause of the change was the shortage of rice due to wartime conditions deteriorated. Brewers began to add rectified alcohol, glucose, glutenous rice, and other ingredients, to make a larger quantity from less rice. In Manchuko, the Japanese name for Manchuria, a synthetic sake was developed which used no rice at all. After the war, recovery for the sake industry was very difficult, and the method of adding alcohol and other ingredients continued. The philosophy of the industry was to make a lot of cheap sake. This sake was called "sanbai-zojoshu" because alcohol was added to increase the batch by threefold. In addition, the sake industry began to face competition from the sale of beer, wine, whiskey, and sochu. By the 1980's, beer became the most widely consumed alcoholic beverage in Japan. But the most recent consumer trends in sake show an interest in quality, not quantity. Consumers interested in naturals foods also led the drive to return to "seishu", or real sake, with no additional ingredients. In 1975, the government began to require stricter labeling, so that consumers would know of the addition of any non-rice ingredients. As a result, the production of the cheaper sakes has declined, and there has been a resurrgence of interest in "jizake." Sake in Japanese Life Today Sake is still very important in Japanese life today. Although its preeminent position as the most widely consumed alcoholic beverage has been successfully challenged by beer and other alcoholic beverages, it is still the ritual drink of choice. The term "sake," by which the Japanese national drink is known in the west, really refers to alcoholic beverages in general. The correct name, "seishu," simply means clear sake which has been passed through a mesh or filter of some kind. At present this term refers to all legally marketed sake. The term "Nihonshu" which is used interchangeably with "seishu" simply means "Japanese drink." The long established relationship between sake and the Shinto religion has continued to the present day. Sake is a part of most Shinto religious ceremonies, and is also a part of the food offered to the gods daily at shrines throughout the country. One of the most interesting ceremonies is the ritual of "san-san kudo" in which the bride and groom seal their vows by tasting sake in three sets of three. Three is considered to be a lucky number. Another important religious ritual is the Japanese New Year, when "toso," a medicinal sake, is offered to the gods at the family shrine in the home. The sake is drunk the next morning as a toast for good health and long life. Sake is the drink chosen for most celebrations. A cask of sake is broken open at building dedications, political victories, graduation parties, and wedding receptions. On festival days the "mitsukoshi" is carried on the shoulders of young men who have already done much celebrating. After a sumo tournament, the winning wrestler is poured a huge metal cup of sake which he is expected to drink in one effort. And during WWII it was sake that prepared the kamekaze pilots for their strange glory. Sake is served with many kinds of meals, and in many different places. It is an important part of "kaiseki ryori" and it can be enjoyed with the meal at the kabuki theatre or at an izakaya. But its most interesting and important role is in helping to solidify relationships. A look at night life in the big cities reveals quite a different view of the hard-working Japanese than one would see during the day. Drinking after work is the mainstay of life for the Japanese male, and recently his female co-workers are taking part in the festivities also. This seems to be the way in which the hard-working Japanese let down their hair. Getting drunk allows them to get loud and silly. In this way they can share thoughts and feelings that would never be allowed under other circumstances. This is a way of celebrating the fictive kinship that is so much a part of the workingman's life, in which he subjugates his personal goals to those of the group. The after hours drinking is a way of building group relationships; it is expected. Although the salarymen may now be drinking beer or other alcoholic beverages
instead of sake, it is the sake culture that is at the basis of the custom.
Pouring each others' sake, for instance, is the basis for the drinking
etiquette of today. One never pours one's own drink, but receives it in
a raised glass from someone else. This ritual, performed many times over
implies a relationship, at least for the moment. And pouring out the soul
goes with it. There is really no shame in being drunk in Japanese society.
All is easily forgiven, and no one remembers much or talks about what
happens. However, there are many less formal places where it is possible to drink sake. It is probably best for "gaijin" to be accompanied by a Japanese friend, because there is always some level of etiquette which will be unfamiliar to the outsider, but if that is not possible it is important to know that outsiders are sincerely welcomed. Traditionally the "izakaya" is different from the bar or pub, although the distinction is blurring, especially among young people.
In addition to the traditional "izakaya," there are many specialty restaurants where people can go to drink sake. Some of the most popular are "yakitori" and "oden" shops. "Yakitori" is grilled meat on a stick, usually chicken or chicken organ meats. "Oden" is like a stew, a hot pot full of all kinds of ingredients including tofu, fishcakes, dumplings, eggs, daikon and potatoes to name only a few. These shops can be very small, serving only a limited type of sake, or can be very large and provide a lot of variety. But in both cases, the emphasis is on drinking and having a good time. Other specialty shops include "unagi," and "dojo" restaurants. These are two types of eel which are particularly popular in the summertime. Of course most foreigners are already familiar with sushi and sashimi, which are becoming increasingly popular in the west. Again, depending on the size of the establishment, these shops may serve only a few sakes or a wide variety. For the Tokyo and Kyoto areas there are several books available in English which list a variety of such establishments. (See references) After the recent elections in Japan, a newly elected official was on television talking about doing the business of government. He was talking about how to reach an agreement on policy issues when he suggested that one of the best ways to achieve agreement was to spend time drinking sake together. In this way, it is hoped that a friendship could be established which would carry over into the "real world." His motto seemed to be "if at first you don't succeed, try try again." How Sake Is Made There are many variations in the way that sake is made, but it is possible to give a brief overview of the process. Sake is often compared to wine, but the brewing process is actually closer to that used for beer, because there are no fermentable sugars in the rice grain. The process is usually described as "multiple parallel fermentation." The starch grains in the rice first need to be converted into sugars before the yeast can act upon them to produce alcohol and carbon dioxide. The starch grains are malted, that is the grains are moistened and warmed to a temperature that will allow germination to begin. Long starch chains are broken down into shorter ones, and the starch is converted into sugars by a mold called, "aspergillus oryzae." Steamed rice which has been acted upon by this mold is called "kojikin," and it is gradually mixed with more rice and yeast. So in reality, two processes are going on at the same time. The "koji" is converting starch molecules into sugars and other enzymes that will affect the flavor of the finished product, while the yeast is converting the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The final product has an alcohol content of between 15 and 20%. It is fair to say however, that the process is much more complicated than this brief description suggests. Each step in the process affects every other one in a complex way. And there is a great deal of variation depending on the size of the "kura" and the degree of mechanization involved. Making the "koji" is considered to be the heart of the brewing process, and it has to be handled with great care in order to avoid damaging the delicate starch chains. First the rice is polished. The polishing rate affects the amount of water that the rice will absorb, and the temperature affects the rate of propagation of the koji mold. Since controlling the temperature and moisture of the rice is critical, it is essential to keep the temperature even throughout the mixture. This is sometimes done by dividing the rice into small batches and putting it onto small shelves called "koji-buta," which are then stacked and transferred to various positions to compensate for variations in the culture room. However, since this is a laborious method, it is rarely used today except in the production of premium grade sakes or for entry into the yearly sake contests. If the trays are not being used, the koji rice is mixed and re-mixed several times. Making the koji in the old laborious manner requires between 40 and 45 hours. But in many places it is accomplished quickly by machine. After the koji is allowed to cool, the starter mash is prepared. It is made with a portion of the koji rice to which is added a very high concentration of yeast cells and a little bit of lactic acid. If the concentration of sugars is too high, it will prohibit the action of the yeast on the starter mash. Unwanted airborn bacteria can also impede the action of the yeast cells, because Japanese sake, unlike Chinese sake, is brewed in open vats. Since the action of lactic acid slows down the growth of unwanted bacteria, the yeast will have a better chance to propagate quickly. This stage is called the "moto" stage. Before the days of modern chemical analysis, the "Yamahai" method was used to produce the "moto." The workers used long poles to pulverize the rice grains. This was an exhausting process in which they worked long hours singing traditional songs to stay awake. This method made the yeast propagate quickly, because lactic acid was produced as a by-product, though this fact was not known at the time. Later it was discovered that it was better to leave the rice grains in tact for as long as possible. Consequently, the "yamahai" method is now only rarely used. But if lactic acid is not added to the "moto" and the "yamahai" method is not used, this stage has to be accomplished very slowly and with great care. The "moto" is then transfered to a large tank to which water, rice, and koji are added in three stages, a process called "sandan shikomi." This three stage process actually takes place over a period of four days. Additions are made on the first, third, and fourth day, the added amount doubling on each day. The moto is now called the "moromi" and it is allowed to ferment for between eighteen and thirty-two days until the life cycle of the yeast is completed. The master brewer must be a clever judge of the brew, judjing from the appearance and aroma of the mash as to when it is ready to be pressed. If he waits too long, the yeast will begin to die creating off-flavors in the sake. Once the sake is ready to be pressed, the liquid is separated from the remaining solid materials. This solid material is called "lees" or "sake kasu". Nowadays this process is usually accomplished by a large machine that looks something like an accordian. ("Sake kasu" can be obtained at any kura in the spring after pressing has been completed. It can be toasted and eaten, or it can be used in different recipes.) However, in the production of many premium sakes, an older method of pressing is used. In one of these methods, bags filled with sake are hung up, and the liquid gradually drips from them. Another way is to stack the bags in a large box called a fune. As pressure is applied, the sake leaks out. The final product is then stored for about ten days before it is charcoal
filtered so that unwanted components will be removed. Most sake is then
pasteurized, "hi-ire" in Japanese. This process was first used
to prevent the sake from getting cloudy. "Hi-ire" kills any
remaining yeast or bacteria that will cause the sake to deteriorate. If
the sake is not heated, it is called "namasake," or raw sake,
and it needs to be kept cold to prevent it from spoiling. However, most
sake is stored until the autumn when it is usually diluted with water
and/or is sometimes pastuerized a second time before bottling. Some brewers
blend their sake to assure an even quality product; and some add a limited
amount of alcohol to produce a lighter smoother type of sake called "honjozo".
The Present State of the Industry As a result of the history and development of the sake brewing industry, there is a useful distinction to be made between the national brands produced in the Nada section of Kobe in Hyogo, and the Fushimi section of Kyoto, and the smaller breweries in the countryside which make "jizake" or local sake. The larger breweries use the most modern technological developments to produce sake on a year round basis, and the most modern distribution methods to reach all parts of the country and beyond. The smaller breweries, "kura," produce a limited amount of sake mostly for local consumption, and are apt to use traditional methods that have changed little over the years. Today, the fifty largest brewers located in the Nada, and Fushimi areas account for over 50% of sake sales. But starting in the 1970's there was a renewed interest in the smaller breweries. Certainly not all sake produced by the big breweries is bad. On the contrary there are many sakes of high quality to be found among the national brands. In addition some of the large brewers actually led the industry in improving the quality of the sake produced by removing unwanted additions from their product. Generally, the sake produced by the large brewers can be counted upon to be of uniform, standard quality, and some of them are really excellent, but sometimes lacking in variety and individuality. "Jizake" is known for its uniqueness and character and greater variability. It is generally held that a great sake, a "sake of dreams," can only be found among these local varieties. (Gauntner, Handbook) Because of the renewed interest in local sake, several prefectures have become famous for its production. Niigata Prefecture has become pre-eminent among local sakes and in turn has influenced popular opinion about the definition of what constitutes "good sake" or connoisseurship. There are at present about 100 kura in Niigata, and in terms of its total production, it is third just behind Hyogo and Kyoto Prefectures. (Gauntner, Newsletter) Niigata sake is clean and dry, and although this is not the type of sake that everyone likes, it is very popular especially among people tasting sake for the first time. Following Niigata Prefecture in popularity and sales, are the sakes from Akita Prefecture in northern Japan. Like Niigata, it is blessed with cold winters and good water. Akita sake is usually described as rich and well-rounded, being neutral or leaning toward the sweet side. And in the last ten years the brewers in this region have been using a yeast strain developed in their prefectural sake research center called AK-1. (Gauntner, Newsletter) Next in terms of sales and popularity are the sakes of Hiroshima and Fukushima Prefectures which are tied for fifth or sixth place in terms of production depending on the year. (Gauntner, Newsletter) Because the water in the region is quite soft, the flavor of sake from Hiroshima is easy to recognize. It has a distinct fragrance and is softer and sweeter than the sake from many other regions. Fukushima sake is usually light and without much fragrance which is neither sweet or dry. It is sake that goes well with food. The Fukushima Prefecture Sake Research Center has also isolated its own special yeast, F1-107, which brewers use to produce premium ginjo-sake. (Gauntner, Newsletter) Some critics point to an inherent problem in the popularity of local
sake. Once a sake is well known, the temptation is to increase production
which often leads to a reduced quality. Although this is not always true,
the criticism is sometimes valid. What Makes Good Sake There are many types of sake depending on the method of production and handling, but there are basically only three important terms used to describe the quality sake prized by connoisseurs. These terms are "junmaishu," "ginjoshu," and "honjozo." In all three of these types, the rice is polished to at least 70% or less of its original size, but in "junmaishu" sake only water and rice are used in its production, whereas in "honjozo" sake a limited amount of brewers alcohol is added. In addition there are some special sakes called "ginjoshu" in which the rice has been polished to 60% or less of its original size. These sakes are highly prized, and they can be either "junmai ginjo," or "honjozo ginjo." Another term which is frequently used to describe them is "tokubetsu," which means special. An important sub-category is "daiginjo" in which the sake rice is polished to 50% or less. In general the "junmaishu" sake has a more full-bodied flavor, and there are in fact many junmaishu devotees, but generally more "honjozo" is sold because the lighter, smoother flavors are at present more popular. However, in terms of sales, ordinary sake "futsushu" still leads the market. And if you simply order sake in a restaurant, the chances are good that "sanzoshu," cheap triple added alcohol, is what you will be served. There are many types of sake depending on the method of production and handling, but there are basically only three important terms used to describe the quality sake prized by connoisseurs. These terms are "junmaishu," "ginjoshu," and "honjozo." In all three of these types, the rice is polished to at least 70% or less of its original size, but in "junmaishu" sake only water and rice are used in its production, whereas in "honjozo" sake a limited amount of brewers alcohol is added. In addition there are some special sakes called "ginjoshu"
in which the rice has been polished to 60% or less of its original size.
These sakes are highly prized, and they can be either "junmai ginjo,"
or "honjozo ginjo." Another term which is frequently used to
describe them is "tokubetsu," which means special. An important
sub-category is "daiginjo" in which the sake rice is polished
to 50% or less. In general the "junmaishu" sake has a more full-bodied
flavor, and there are in fact many junmaishu devotees, but generally more
"honjozo" is sold because the lighter, smoother flavors are
at present more popular. However, in terms of sales, ordinary sake "futsushu"
still leads the market. And if you simply order sake in a restaurant,
the chances are good that "sanzoshu," cheap triple added alcohol,
is what you will be served. First of all, the rice used for sake is different from the variety of rice used for eating. In the rice that is eaten, minerals, proteins, and lipids are mixed throughout the rice grain; but the rice used in making sake has the starch concentrated in the center. This central portion is called the "shinpaku." The extraneous materials can be polished away so that they do not cause off flavors in the finished product. There are many different strains of rice used in sake production, but Yamada Nishki is considered the best, followed by Miyama Nishiki, and Gohyakuman. In these strains of rice, the rice grain is particularly large and the starch is concentrated in the center. But because the type of rice grown depends on local growing conditions and weather, they cannot be grown equally well in all prefectures. Kura must either produce the type of rice which grows best locally, or obtain rice grown in other parts of the country. Yamada Nishiki does not grow well in all areas of the country. It is grown primarily in Hyogo and Hiroshima Prefectures. Miyama Nishiki is primarily grown in Akita, Yamagata, and Nagano Prefectures. Gohyakuman rice is grown in Niigata, Ishikawa, and Toyama Prefectures. (Gauntner, Newsletter)) Since water constitutes 80% of the sake, the quality of the water is also an important factor. The source of the water is important because the starch grains absorbs so much of it. The most famous water of all time is "Miyamizu" water from the Nada region. Sake produced using this water with highly polished rice was so popular in Edo that it helped to establish the Nada region as the major sake producing area at that time. Of course, there was no modern chemical analysis then to tell us what is known today about its composition. "Miyamizu" water was the result of particularly favorable geological conditions. But today pollution is an ever increasing problem which makes it difficult to find a good water source. What has been learned is that the most detrimental element for sake production is iron. Maganese is also a destructive element. On the other hand, potassium, magnesium, and phosphoric acid aid in propagating the yeast cells. Today most kura use well water because of the problem of pollution to rivers and lakes. But modern methods of filtration can also be used. In addition, the water can be either hard or soft, that is abundant or lacking in salts, like calcium and magnesium. Soft water containing fewer salts produces a sake that is soft and subtle, like the sakes of Hiroshima Prefecture, and they are often referred to as female sake; whereas water that contains more salts is hard water which produces a taste that is dry and strong and is sometimes referred to as male sake. Generally the water in any given region is similar and gives the sake produced there its distinctive flavor. In recent years more attention has been paid to the yeast strains used. Several prefectures have developed particular strains that work well with the rice and water available to them locally. Some of these yeast strains are the property of individual kura, and others have been developed by prefectural research centers. Still others are available from the Japan Sake Brewers Association. Yeast strains number 7, 9 and 10 are particularly popular in the production of premium daiginjo sakes. (Gautner, Newsletter). These yeast strains work well with the highly polished rice and help to develop the fruity or flowery fragrances associated with these premium brews. To reiterate slightly, the single most important factor in the production of ginjo and daiginjo sakes is the polishing rate of the rice. Polishing the rice removes unwanted elements that produce off flavors; but it also makes the remaining starch chains fragile and difficult to handle, requiring great skill on the part of the "toji," or master brewer. Most sake experts agree that the ingredients and polishing rate are one-half of the equation in producing good sake, but the skill of the "toji" is the other half. Since the "toji" makes all the critical decisions involved in the brewing process, it requires many years of on-the-job-training. From the different areas of the country where they learned their trade, historically distinctive styles of brewing began to take shape. Today there are about 25 "toji-rhuha," or schools throughout Japan which are each associated with a particular region of the country. (Gaunter, Handbook, p.87) Of these schools the three largest are Nanbu "Toji" from Iwate Prefecture; Echigo "Toji" from Niigata Prefecture; and Tajima "Toji" from Hyogo Prefecture. Traditionally, the "toji" was involved in agriculture in his
home town, but after the harvest season he would gather his workers around
him and make sake. The people who worked with him were called "kurabito."
Nowadays, due to modern transportation systems, the "toji" and
his band can travel far from home, so they can be found in any area of
the country. After this description of the modern sake industry, one might wonder what first-hand learning experiences are available in Kanagawa Prefecture since it is not a major producing area. However, its location near the major distribution centers of Tokyo and Yokohama make it possible to taste sake from any area of the country while studying a small local area in the midst of developing and promoting its own local fare. There is a lot of information regarding drinking spots in Tokyo, as well as experts who are willing to make specific recommendations about the best tasting brews. One needs only to pick up one of the many reference books available in English on the topic. (See references) However, it is more important for people to have experiences that develop their own tastes, and their awareness of Japanese culture as well. Statistics Although the author has read many descriptions of the flavors and tastes of sake, she has concluded that most of them are worthless without first-hand experiences. Within limits not only is "good taste" a personal judgement, it is also specific to the occasion. She has seen the same people taste the same sake on two different occasions with very different perceptions. Sake that tasted "watery" at an outdoor barbeque was nevertheless highly praised at a more formal occasion with different food. However, in making a selection there are some rough guides that might be helpful in making a purchase. The one most relevant piece of information is the "seimaibuai" which is the polishing rate of the rice. For instance, "ginjoshu" has a "seimaibuai" of 60% or less. The "nihonshudo" is a numerical value that describes how sweet or how dry the sake is. It is really the density of the sake compared to water which has a value of 0. On the plus side of zero, the sake is described as dry, while on the minus side of zero the sake is described as sweet. The scale runs between +10 and -10. Another important statistic is the acid rate which is recorded on a scale of between 1 and 1.8. The acid rate makes a significant difference in the taste of sake. "Junmaishu," for instance usually has a higher acid rate than other types of sake. But generally, the acid taste is less noticeable in sweeter sake. It is important to remember, however, that neither sweet or dry implies a qualitative judgement. Although dry sake is at present more popular, there are both excellent and poor dry sakes. However, all of this information may not be printed on the label on the bottle. The labels can be charming, and they can be a good way to study Japanese language, culture, and aesthetics; but they sometimes lack important information. Another problem is that the information is sometimes written in cursive script which can be undecipherable. The name of the brewer, the brand name, and the place will appear, but by law only three pieces of information are required: the list of ingredients, the percent of alcohol, and the shipping date (not the production date). Most shoppers look for the type of sake, but it may not be listed. It may need to be infered from the number and type of ingredients listed. Only two or three ingredients listed indicate a special designation sake. Sometimes there is a label on the back which gives extra information such as the material rice and the polishing rate. If this extra information is present, it is no doubt a high quality sake which the brewers have confidence in; but if it is lacking, it is safe to assume that the sake is ordinary. Sake experts generally agree that what makes a sake taste good is a balance between five different flavors: sweet, sour, dry, bitter, and rough. Dry sake is not necessarily better than sweet sake. It seems to the author that most other attempts to render descriptions of the taste or fragrance of sake are so extremely subjective as to make them almost useless. Tastes and fragrances are sometimes described as flowery or fruity, straight forward or complex. The author believes that It is important for sake tasters to be able to describe the fragrance and taste of the sake for their own purposes mainly, then stick to the slightly more obectve five flavors in talking about them with others. It might also be important to note the circumstances under which the sake was tasted and/or what foods were served. Over time the taster will develop his own sense of connoisseurship. Leaving aside the purpose of getting drunk, the taster needs only be guided by his taste and his pocketbook, backed by some knowledge of the sake types and statistics. Kanagawa Sake In Kanagawa Prefecture there are only 16 licensed breweries, and of those 16, only 12 actually produce it there. (See Chart) It has only been within the last 10 years, that Kanagawa sake has received any attention or promotion. This new interest has been the result of three factors that have affected its production. First of all, there was a resurgence of interest in local sake beginning in the 1970's. Secondly, for a long time Kanagawa could not grow the best type of rice. But now, farmers have found that they can grow Wakamizu, a good sake rice, which was originally developed in Aichi Prefecture. (Yamanari) And lastly, the water in the Kanto region contains a lot of iron which is poor for sake water. But nowadays, well water can be obtained by drilling down through layers of the mountain. There are basically two water sources in Kanagawa. The growers in the Odawara area use water from Hakone, while all others use water from the Tanazawa Mountains. Of the 12 "toji," seven received their training in Niigata, four were from Iwate, and 1 was from Hyogo. (Yamanari) Although Kanagawa sakes are not well known, they are not inferior. (Yamanari,1998) Yamanari characterizes Kanagawa sake as clean and flavorful with a high percentge of high grade sakes made from highly polished rice. Yet in searching through the literature in print, the author has found only one mention of a recommended Kanagawa sake. In the Sake Handbook, John Gautner recommends "Ginkara," a ginjoshu made by Kumazawa Shuzo. (Gauntner, 1997) In addition to the problems already noted, there is not much public support or promotion of Kanagawa sakes, so the public doesn't really know much about them. As a result local sake is not stocked in many liquor shops. Also, Kanagawa Prefecture does not support research and public development. Some of the breweries are trying to carry out their own research, but it is very difficult and almost impossible to compete with larger organizations. And in the last few years, the local breweries have had to cope with an economic recession which has made sales of local sake even more difficult. However, Kanagawa sakes have occasionally won a gold prize in the National New Sake Competition. In this competion representative sakes from the 11 regional tax office competitions are entered. However, no Kanagawa sake won prizes in spring 2000. If locally grown rice is considered as part of the definition of local sake, then Kanagawa Prefecture can now boast that there are some truly local ones. One such genuine local sake is called "Kanagawa Monogatari" which is a junmai ginjo. It uses wakamizu rice which is polished to 55%. The alcohol content is 14%. It is pastuerized once when it is put in the bottle. A cooperative regulates the production of Kanagawa Monogatari since several different "kura" produce it. It was introduced in the Landmark Tower in 1997. Originally it was made by seven different breweries, but now only five continue its production: Kawanishi Shuzo, Kannai Shuzo, Kubota Shuzo, Koganei Shuzi, and Kumazawa Shuzo. (Yamanari) Apparently it does not sell well, but the author has tasted it and recommends it highly. The low alcohol content, 13%-14% plus its dry, full-bodied flavor make it very appealing. The label says that it can be drunk hot or cold, but the author prefers it cooled. Another local sake is "Yamato," which means "spring in the forest," produced by Izumibashi. The rice is Nihon Bare produced by only two farmers in Yamato City. The polishing rate is 50%; the alcohol content is 16%-17%, and the production is limited to less that 1000 bottles a year. The label on this sake is particularly attractive suggesting people gathering in a park. The flavor is very subtle and changes slightly from sweet to dry in the mouth, (Yamanari, 1998) "Shirasasa-tsuzumi" is a ginjoshi made by Kannai Shuzo. The name means "drum." The rice used is wakamizu polished to 55%. The alcohol rate is 14.6%. It is a "nama chozoshu" which means it is stored raw (no "hi-ire") and is heated only once at the bottling stage. As a result of its storage method it is very refreshing to the taste. Yamanari describes it as having a full round taste and a fruity fragrance. The author is particularly fond of this sake. A particularly interesting sake is "Ebina no Sato" which means "the village place." It is a junmai ginjo made by Izumbashi. It is made with wakamizu rice polised to a rate of 55%. The alcohol content is 15%-16%. What makes Ebina so different is that it is stored for one year and is aged for three years. Traditionally sake has not been aged. It usually needs to be drunk within a year of brewing. But aged sake, sometimes called "koshu" is popular with a small percentage of sake drinkers. It has a darker and more pungent flavor. So,It may be better to drink only one glass or over the rocks. Another delicious local sake is "Ginjo Tsukuri" produced in the Tanazawa Mountain Range by Kowanishi Shuzo. It is a junmai ginjo made with wakamizu rice polished to 55%. The alcohol content is 15%-16%. According to its producer, this is a good example of a sake in which all five sake flavors (sweet, sour, bitter, dry, and astringent) are well balanced. (Yamanari) The author has tasted this sake which she considers to be particularly smooth and mild. It would go well with almost any kind of food. "Koto Hime," Princess Koto, is a junmai ginjo made by Nakazawa Shuzo. The name is the producer's mother's name. The rice is wakamizu polished to 55% which is grown on the producers own farm. It is organically grown with no chemicals. The alcohol rate is 14.7%. The author particularly appreciates the refeshing and mild taste. There is no bitterness. This is a very local sake and the workers share in the pride in their product. The Kura As has already been noted, there are 16 kura licensed to produce sake in Kanagawa Prefecture. Only 12 of them really produce the sake there. The other four simply blend sake produced elsewhere. In addition to the map, a chart has been provided with the name, addresses, and telephone numbers of each of these kura, as well as the date on which the kura was established. It is of course not possible to report on each and every sake produced by these kura, but it is possible to give some salient and interesting information about them. The kura were not equally receptive to requests for information about their sake and its vital statistics. This does not imply a positive or negative value judgement about them. However, in the cases where they have provided a complete list, a copy has been included for the reader's information. Where possible notes have been made of field trips and excursions which would improve the reader's sake expertise and/or knowledge of Japanese culture. You can always buy sake at the brewery shops; however, many of them are at quite a distance from downtown Yokohama. Of all of the "kura" that were contacted, five of them (Nakazawa, Izumibash, Kumazawa, Koganei, and Kanai) were very receptive to group tours and apparently give them fairly frequently. Remember that to see the process of sake making in action, a visit must be scheduled during the brewing season which is roughly between the beginning of November and the end of February. It is necessary to make a reservation ahead of time. However, you can usually visit the brewery shop at anytime. But since it sometimes requires a long trip, it might be best to visit while doing other sightseeing in the area. When visiting, it is possible to taste some of the sake before making a purchase. Of course this is not a place to drink until drunk. If you wish to continue drinking, ask the shop attendant for the nearest "izakaya" in which they serve the local brew. KANAGAWA BREWERIES INFORMATION
2. Izumibashi Shuzo. Est. 1857. "Izumibashi" 3. Kumazawa Shuzo. Est. 1872. "Shoko" 4. Ohya Shuzo. Est. 1832. "Higashi no-homare" 5. Ohyakou Shuzo. Est. 1830. "Hourai" 6. Koganei Shuzo. Est. 1818. "Sakarimasu" 7. Shimizu Shuzo. Est. 1751. "Iwanoizumi" 8. Aida Shuzo. Est. 1889. "Chiebukuro" 9. Ishi Shuzo. Est. 1870. "Sogano-homare" 10. Inoue Shuzo. Est. 1789. "Hakoneyama" 11. Nakazawa Shuzo. Est. 1825. "Matsumidori" 12. Kawanishi Shuzo. Est. 1897. "Tanbasan" 13. Seto Shuzo. Est. 1865. "Sakatanishiki" 14. Maisugata Shuzo. Est. 1870 "Maisugata" 15. Kikkawa Shuzo. Est. 1912. "Kikuyu" 16. Kanai Shuzo. Est. 1868. "Shirazasa"
Kubota Shuzo is located in Sagaminada. The scenery in this area is very
beautiful and the feeling is that you are still in the Edo era, because
the area hasn't changed much. The building that they presently use is
140 years old and is considered to be one of the hundred most important
in Japan for its design and surroundings. For these reasons, this area
is often used by filming companies. Mr. Hiroshi Kubota is now the president
of this company. This brewery is very proud of their water. Mr. Kubota
says that they don't need to filter their water because the many trees
that grow there act as a filter. He also believes that it is important
to take the brewing of normal sake seriously. Although making a good daiginjo
is important, it is the regular sake that people drink everyday. He wants
to maintain good relationships with the local people, because Kubota makes
local sake. Rakuzui is the sake that is the most popular with the local
people. At Kubota Shuzo the sake is named after the Sagami River, and the representative brand is Sagaminada. The author tasted this sake at the festival on Mt. Oyama where a dedicatation ceremony is held each spring for the sake of the new year. There was sake there from all over the Kanto region, including six representative brands from Kanagawa Prefecture. These were not the "special" sakes, but the average representative brands. She felt that Sagaminada was one of the best, if not "the best" that was available that day. It might seem difficult to find and taste Sagiminada, because there are no hotels or inns which sell it. But, according to the president you can purchase it by mail. It is very easy to obtain a product/price list by phoning the brewery. (See the chart) The term "raw" is a translation of "nama." It means that the sake has not been pasteurized. Within the last few years "namazake" has become very popular. But if you purchase a "namazake" it is important to keep it refrigerated or it will deteriorate quickly. Also, drink it as soon as possible. Remember, "hi-ire" kills the action of the yeast, but in "nama" the yeast lives on. If the sake becomes cloudy, you know that it has spoiled. Otherwise, "namazake" has a zippy, refreshing flavor that is not at all subtle. At Kubota Shuzo, the "nama" is in a green or blue bottle.
This brewery is located in Ebina City by a bridge over the road several hundred meters away from the station. They have a very aggressive marketing department which maintains a page on the internet with information in four languages. (http://www.izumibashi.com) The President is Hideaki Hashiba and the Marketing Director is Obara Mosate. The toji is a Nambu toji from Iwate Prefecture. It is important to realize that 80% of the sakes produced by Izumibashi are special designation sakes. The sake is not stored in a tank, but is stored after it is bottled. The water is soft and comes from a well dug 75 meters into the ground. Hallelujah is a popular sake made from Yamada Nishiki rice. But in addition, Izumibashi makes four daiginjo sakes: Izumibashi, Gin no Izumi, Hoshi no Shizuko, and Ebina no Sato. In 1996 and again in 1998, this brewery won a gold prize for Gin no Izumi. It is possible to tour Izumibashi from January until March. A reservation is necessary for a group of up to 30 people. This is one of the most pleasant and informative tours available. Before actually touring the facility, participants will visit a tea room upstairs where the owner will describe the process and answer any questions. The facility is immaculately clean. One of the most pleasant things about visiting a "kura" at this time of year is getting a taste of "shiboritate" which means freshly pressed sake. The sake here is pressed the old-fashioned way using bags and a "fune." At Izumibashi Shuzo, people can join the Hallelujah Club. ("Hareruya no Kai") People who join this club take part in rice-planting, weeding, and harvesting. They are then invited to a sampling party in the spring. This year, the rice planting was held on June 4, but the schedule changes every year. The rice fields are adjacent to the brewery. It is easy to find and purchase sake from Izumibashi. They are available in Yokohama Takashimaya, Keikyu Kamiooka, and Yokosuka Saikaya Department stores. They are also available from two liquor shops: Kanazawabunko, and Tajimaya.
Kumazawa Shuzo is the only brewery that still remains in the Shonan area. The representative sake is "Shoko." They have won the gold prize twice in the new sake competition. In some ways this brewery is the youngest in Japan, because the people who work there are very young. The sixth president is Kumazawa Mokichi who became president when he was less than 30 years old. They also have a young toji from the Tamba area. Approximately 80% of all their sakes are special designation sakes. Another interesting thing is that they have a special "sake lover's club" to which they admit members and sell special limited sake for 10,000Y/year. (Yamanari) They send three bottles of Daiginjo Tensei to each of their members. (Gautner, Handbook) Daiginjo Tensei uses Yamada Nishiki rice polished to 35%. It is only available to club members. They also make a daiginjo genshu koshu, an aged and undiluted sake, that is blended and mellowed wonderfully. (Gauntner, Handbook) Members of the club also get a newsletter called the Kumazawa Shinbun. Kumazawa Shuzo is innovative in several ways. They have now begun to brew Shonan beer in the summer. Since the sake brewing season is so short, beer can be brewed during the off-season. The facility is not sitting idle, and this supplements the income from sake sales. Another innovation is that they run their own restaurant. The atmostphere is warm and countrified, built of knotty pine, and illuminated with warm lamp light. There is ample space for a private party. Westerners will feel very comfortable, because it is unusual in Japan to find a place that is so large and spacious. And the food is delicious, with something for everyones' taste whether Japanese, Italian, American, German etc. The food is fresh, tastes good, and the portions are large. Of course, in addition to the food, you can taste the sake and the beer. There are four different kinds of beer on the menu, and three different kinds of sake plus "taruzake." You can order the set-of-three sake and taste three different kinds for only Y980. The three sakes are as follows: 1) Nidaime Mokichi (junmaishu, namazake). The rice used is Miyama Nishiki polished to 60% with an 17% alcohol content. The Nihonshudo is -1; and the acid rate is 1.9. 2) Enzo (junmai ginjo). The rice used is a mixture of Miyama Nishiki and Yamada Nishiki polished to 50%. The Nihonshudo is 0; the acid rate is 1.8; the alcohol content is 17%. 3) Shodai Mokichi (daiginjo). The rice used is Yamada Nishiki polished to 40%. The alcohol content is 17%. The Nihonshudo is +2.5; and the acid rate is 1.6. The restaurant can provide you with bottled well-water which is drawn from their 100-meter-deep wells, if so desired. The water comes from the Tanazawa Mountain range. The water can be used to cleanse the palette between sake. It will also attest to the fact that the water is free of noxious chemical or mineral taste. The taruzake costs Y500 and is served in a masu, a cubic shape measure made of wood. "Taruzake" is sake that is aged in a cedar barrel, but on the tour of the facility a question was asked about the taruzake specifically. The "taruzake" is really only aged in cedar for a day or two. To age it in cedar any longer would be to overwhelm the sake flavor. In addition there is some kind of drinking in the cellar. The menu is somewhat vague on this point, saying only that it is the sake of the Master and that it costs Y600 per bottle. The author knows no one who has tried this. This restaurant pub is a delightful way to taste sake and to have some fun too. It is possible to get a tour of the facility for less than 10 people with a reservation one month in advance.
At Koganei Shuzo the representative sake is "Sakarimasu." Koganei is located on the Nanazawa River near Nanazawa Onsen. It is the largest producer in Kanagawa. At this brewery, an automatic malting machine and rice steamer is used. The building being used was previously a factory. The President is Koganei Ichita; the toji is Kaneko Shigeo who is from Aichi Prefecture. It is possible to take a tour of the facility if there is a group of at least 10 people, and if a reservation is made. The best time is from the end of November until the end of February. The tour director shows a video about how sake is produced and answers any questions regarding the process. In the factory, participants can see huge vats of "moromi" where the process of fermentation is proceeding. Other batches of sake are on the assembly line going through the bottling process. The President, Koganei Kazata, says he wants to make sake that is appealing to young people and ladies. Consequently he wishes to make sake that is soft and has a low alcohol content. Koganei has sometimes won a gold prize in the National New Sake Contest. After the tour, participants can taste three different types of sake: Koganei Daiginjo Sake; Koganei Ginjo Sake; and Namazake. Don't taste the "nama" first because the strong flavor will ruin the palette for the more delicate taste of the ginjo and daiginjo sakes. The ginjo and daiginjo sakes are popular favorites when they are served indoors with food. The sake tasting room is outdoors in the wind. Like Kumazawa Shuzo, Koganei Shuzo is now making beer. The beer is called "Sagami Beer" and it has been brewed since 1998 during the hot months of the summer. The brewery operates an Italian pizzeria called Selvaggina just a few blocks away. The restaurant has only been open since 1999, its main purpose being, in addition to food, to sell Sagami beer. You can always purchase sake in the head office at Koganei Shuzo; but there are, according to the president, 150 shops in Kanagawa Prefecture where it is sold. It is also available in Yokohama at Sogo Department Store. But perhaps the most interesting places to taste the sake is at the various hot spring hotels in Atsugi-shi. There are two within an easy walk from the brewery, and nine altogether which serve sake from Koganei Shuzo. Make a reservation in advance for a meal and a bath, or have the office at Koganei call to see if space is available. Better yet, stay over night in one of the Nanzawa Onsen hotels, eat the delicious food, bask in the onsen, and taste sake before visiting the brewery the next day. This is a very Japanese thing to do, but be sure to ask a Japanese friend ahead of time about the proper etiquette to use in the hot bath. Do not drink sake before the bath. Bathe first, eat and drink later. According to the president, sake from Koganei shuzo is served at the following hotels or locations: Nanazawa Onsen resort hotels in Atsugi-shi (9); Iiyama Onsen resort hotels in Atsugi-shi (8); Koakien hot spring resort hotel in Hakone, Yugawara hot spring hotel (no name given); Oyama hot spring resort hotel (no name given); Royal Park Hotel in Atsugi; Odakyu Atsugi Hotel in Atsugi; and Daiichi Hotel in Ebina-shi. Phone the brewery office and/or a travel agent for details.
Shimizu Shuzo is located next to the Narai bus stop in Tsukui Town. The president is Shimizu, Taro. The toji is a Nanbu Toji from Iwate Prefecture. Built in the 1750's, the building is the oldest and most historical brewery in Kanagawa. Under the eaves of the entrance, a big globe made of the needles of a Japanese cedar tree is hanging. This is called a "sugi-dama." The cedar tree is associated with the sake diety of the Miwa Shrine in Nara Prefecture. In the fall of every year, brewery owners and toji go to the shrine of their choice to pray for a successful season. At that time, they get a globe of green needles. Tradition holds that when the globe has turned brown in the spring, new sake is ready for sale. Most recently the "sugi-dama" is simply an indication that sake is available within. The President, Shimizu Taro, says that he doesn't like heavy sake, but a lot of sake nowadays is too light. He likes light sake but he feels that it has to have some kind of flavor or energy to make people want to drink it again. The representative brand is "Iwao no Izumi." The characteristic of this brewery is that they make good "shiripin" sake. (Yamanari) "Shiripin" or "pin" is a term that is roughly analogous to the western term aftertaste. Sometimes called the "tail" It refers to how the flavor lasts in the mouth. The term is neither good or bad, but depends instead on the kind of flavor and if you like it. The impression of some sake tends to change as it lingers. The President of the "kura" is also very concerned about the source of water. At present they are using water pumped up from 50 meters below the ground. They also try to purify the water, because they want soft water with no particular peculiarity. The representative brand, "Iwa no Izumi Daiginjo" is made with Yamada Nishiki rice polished to about 35%. The Nihonshudo is 3.5, the acid rate is 1.3 and the alcohol content is 15.7%. This sake won the gold medal at the National New Sake Contest two times. It is very clear, almost like drinking water. (Yamanari) They also make an "Iwa no Izumi Honjozo" which is very different
from the daiginjo version. The rice is a combination of Omachi and Akebono
polished to 65%; the Nihonshudo is 0, the acid rate is 1.5, the alcohol
content is 15%-16%. This sake is brewed using a method similar to the
old "kimito" method which produces a strong, rich flavor. The
brewer believes that Omachi is one of the best rice types for making sake. The sake from Shimizu Shuzo can be purchased at liquor shops in Tsukui Machi, as well as at two distant shops. One of them is Kuraya in Machida, and the other is Fitcare Kamegaya on route 246 in Yokohama. It is served at the Yokohama City Club in Yokohama which is a kaiseki ryori restaurant. This kura is located near the beauty of Lake Tsukui and Lake Sagami where many festivals are held.
Aida Shuzo is located in the historic town of Odawara about 1 km from Odawara Station, so visit Aida Shuzo when you visit Odawara Castle. The President is Aida, RyuIchi; the toji is Sato, Tsuneo who was trained in the Tohoku area. Since the ground in Odawara consists of vocanic ash and carbonized wood, it is high in sulphurated hydrogen making it hard to get good water. (Yamanari). The old records of the family from the Edo period indicate that they were trying to bring Miyamizu water from Nada. (Yamanari) On the east side of the Sanno River, the water comes from the Tanazawa Range, and on the west side of the river it comes from Hakone. At Aida, they drill down 80 meters to get good water. The representative brands of this brewery are Chiebukuro, a junmai ginjo, which means the "back of wisdom," and Soun which mean "fast cloud." The people in Odawara are reminded of Hojo Soun, an important daimyo before the Edo period. The President believes that both making and selling sake is important. They use a circulating system of storage so that no sake will deteriorate on the shelves. "Chiebukuro" won the National New Sake Contest in 1998. However, they make several special sakes. One of them, "Kikuzo Nishiki Ginjo" is well-known for the picture on the bottle. It was drawn by Pasio Higashima who is a well-known Rakugo story teller. The picture on the bottle shows people of the Edo period drinking sake under the blossoms for fun and pleasure. The policy of the President is that sake should be drunk for pleasure and amusement. Besides the special sakes, this brewery makes four ordinary sakes that are worthy of note: Minato, Yokohama, Yokohama Samba, and Yokohama no Hoshi. Every occasion is not meant for daiginjo. They are limited in sale to Yokohama City. In 1998, Yokohama no Hoshi became the sake of the Yokohama Bay Stars, and it is sold in the baseball stadium. Yokohama Samba is sold on the Yokohama Harbor Tour and at the Kirin Restaurant next to the Kirin Brewery. In addition, sake from Aida Shuzo can be obtained in Yokohama at Matsuzakaya Department Store and at Takashimaya Department Store.
At Ishi Shuzo the representative sake is Soga no Homare. There is a lot of history in this name, because it is famous for the story of the revenge of the Soga brothers. The brewery was founded by Soga Ishi in the Meji Era and the present president is the fifth Soga, Ishi. Homare means "pride," so the name means the "pride of the Soga." The toji is Mr. Shigeru Yumoto who comes from Niigata Prefecture. Ishi Shuzo is located in the small town of Ohi Machi, very close to Kami Ohi Station. At the end of the station is a big building with a gate. There is also a warehouse with a chimney that is typical of a brewery. There is a stream beside the brewery which is very pure. The weather is usually mild and the scenery is beautiful. This town is known for the Hyotan Matsuri. A hyotan is a gourd shaped flask or bottle that people during the middle ages used to hang at their waist. It could be filled with water, or sake, or whatever. Although the Hyotan Matsuri is not well known, Mr. Soga is working very hard to promote it. He is at present the President of the Ohi Machi Brewers Union. Usually sake is brewed using a 3-step method called "sandan shikomi." However, this brewery uses a 4-step method for ordinary sake. (Yamanari) In the fourth step they add mochigome (glutinous rice) This method is definitely not used for junmai or special designation sake. "Soga no Homare" is a junmai ginjo made from Miyama Nishiki rice polished to about 60%. The Nihonshudo is +3, the acid rate is 1.8, and the alcohol rate is 15%-16%. They also make a premium diaginjo "Soga no Homare" sake made from Yamada Nishiki rice polished to 50%. The Nihonshudo is +3; the acid rate is 1.8; and the alcohol content is 15%-16%. It is light and easy to drink. They also make a premium daiginjo sake called "Shyaku Nage no Kaze" which means "breeze on the rhododendrun flowers. The rice is Yamada Nishiki polished to a rate of 40%. The Nihonshudo is +3.5; the acid rte is 1.5, and the alcohol content is 15%-16%. (Yamanari) This brewery did not make daiginjo sake before 1998. In addition to their own store in Oimachi, this brewery's sake can be purchased at liquor shops mainly in Odawara and Hakone. It can also be purchased at Saikaya Department Store.
This brewery was founded in 1789 which makes it the second oldest brewery in Kanagawa. Its representative sake is Hakoneyama. It is also located on Ohi Machi, within a few minutes walking distance from Ishi Shuzo. Incidentally, Ohi Machi is in an area which is famous for plums. The Soga plum orchard is only two stops away on the JR Gotemba line and is in full bloom some time in February. There are many houses that have warehouses in Ohi Machi because there are many rice farmers that live there. The President is Inoue, Hiroshi; the toji is Hatakeyama, Zenichi from Iwate Prefecture. The owner, Mr. Inoue, says he can't drink very much, but he has a great capacity to determine good sake from bad. He enjoys the challenge of promoting sake to consumers, and he is very confident about it. At Inoue, almost all of the sake is special designation sake. They produce ginjo (25.6%), Junmai (6.5%) and Honjozo (67.9%). The president says that it is teamwork that makes a good product. The toji says they have good water. It is well-water drilled to a depth of 120 feet, but the hardness rating is +9 which is very hard. So the quality depends on the speed of fermentation. (Yamanari) The author visited Inoue Shuzo and tasted Hakoneyama, Hakonebara, and Hakoneyama Junmai Ginjo, and she liked them all very much. (See the Statistics Sheet) The most interesting fact about Inoue is that they have been exporting Hakoneyama to Europe for the last 30 years. Inoue is part of a cooperative that now exports to Korea, China, Vietnam, America, Brazil, and Australia. On the label of Hakoneyama is a picture of Mt. Fuji and Lake Ashinoko which originated to remind people of the famous resort "Hakone" which is nearby. When the author visited Inoue Shuzo, Mr. Inoue was able to show her a list of twelve restaurants in the Washington area that serve chilled premium and super-premium sakes. The list was a part of an article in the Washington Post which described the recent revolution in drinking sake cold instead of heated. Historically, sake has been warmed before drinking. This took the raw edge off of the flavor. But during the last hundred years, premium ginjo and daiginjo sakes have been produced which taste better when they are slightly chilled. It brings out the delicate flavor and aroma. Of course all of the sake served in these restaurants are not from Inoue Shuzo, but Inoue is part of the cooperative which supplies them. Of course for Japanese locals it is possible to get Hakoneyama in shops and liquor stores in the Hakone area. There are also two major hotels that serve it: the Yokohama Bay Sheraton Hotel, and the hotel "Le Phare" (lighthouse) in Honmoku.
Nakazawa Shuzo is located near the JR Matsuda Station at the center of Matsuda Machi. The kura is somewhat difficult to find because of the congestion, restaurants and stores, which surround it. There used to be other kura, but Nakazawa is the only one remaining there. The owner of the kura is Kagiwada, Kingo; but it is his son who is now running the business. The old house traces back to the Kamakura period. In days long past, the family was in charge of the "kagi" (key) for the feudal lord of Odawara, so the family name became Kagiwada. At the end of the Edo period, they started to make sake. Matsu mi Dori is the name of a street and the name of the representative sake. The name was given by the feudal lord because there were so many pine trees there. The tori is the animal in the Chinese zodiac. (Yamanari) The sakes produced at Nakazawa are very high quality. Ninety percent of them are polished to a rate under 70% or less. (See chart) The toji is Hatakeyama, Yaichi who is a Nambu toji from Iwate Prefecture. Yamanari recommends the Daiginjo Hanayaka which he describes as having a smooth, soft taste. The brewers are particularly proud of "Koto Hime," which named after the brewer's wife, is made with Wakamizu rice. They are also very proud of Gin-no-Mai which was used for the toast at the Tokyo Summit in 1986 and 1993. It is a junmai ginjoshu with rice polished to under 50%. The Nihonshudo is -1.5. It has an elegant flavor and is mild. Gin-no-Mai would be described as a female sake. It is interesting to note that Nakazawa makes both Gin-no-Mai and Ginkara
which are two brands that are produced by various breweries in the Kanto
area. Each brand shows the brewery on the label. Shuhan Kyodo Kumei Cooperative
regulates its production to a standard. The standard needs to be met to
qualify for these names. If Gin-no-Mai is a female sake, Ginkara is a
male sake. According to Nakazawa Shuzo, the Nihonshudo is +3.5, and the
alcohol rate is 15.8%. According to Yamanari the taste is sharp and clear.
Every year the kura has a special event on January 11. It is a "kura-biraki" which is an open house where everybody can join in and taste the sake of the new year. A local band plays at the party. In passing through the area the astronuat John Glenn once visited the brewery. From Nakazawa Shuzo it is a short walk to Matsudayama Herb Garden. Pamphlets and information about this attraction are available right in Matsuda Station. There are various kinds of herbs which bloom at different times of the year. There is a restaurant at the top of the hill which serves foods seasoned with herbs from the garden. In late February early blossoming cherry trees are in full bloom. The blossoms are a beautiful dark pink. From the top of the hill is a beautiful view of the area including the Sakawagawa River and Mt. Kintaro where the strong boy of the legend was raised by a bear. It is a lovely day's event to visit Nakazawa Shuzo and Matsuda Herb Garden. It is possible to visit Nakazawa almost any day in the afternoon, but a reservation is necessary. Also phone for special events and the hours of operation of the herb garden restaurant.
Kawanishi Shuzo is located in the Tanazawa area of Kanagawa Prefecture. From Yamakita Station, the shop is located at the end of the street. The President is Tsuyaki Yoshitane, and his son is Tsuyaki, Masaichi. They both have a lot of ideas and a great deal of theoretical knowledge. They like Wakamizu rice and use it in all of their junmaishu sakes. (Yamanari) The philosophy of the kura is to produce a sake that goes well with food; therefore they don't make strong impact sake. The toji is Tkaoka Zenroku. The representative sake is "Tanbasan." Ginjo Tsukuri Tanzawasan is a sake made with gohyakuman rice polished to 50%. The Nihonshudo is 3.5, the acid rate is 1.2, and the alcohol content is 15%-16%. (Yamanari) It is clean and pure and goes well with Japanese food. It doesn't assert itself. It goes well with soba and white meat dishes. Junmai Ginjo Tanbasan Shiboritate is a namazake. The rice is Wakamizu polished to a rate of 55%; the Nihonshudo is +2; the acid rate is 1.7; and the alcohol rate is 17%-18%. (Yamanari) The rice is all grown in Ashigara. There is a fresh taste that is characteristic of a just pressed namazake. Ginjo Sukuri Tanbasan Shiboritate Nama uses Gohyakuman rice polished to 50%. The Nihonshudo is 4.5; the acid rate is 1.3, and the alcohol rate is 18%-19%. (Yamanari) Yamanari describes it as a fresh tasting female sake. Because the brewer produces a high quality product, he takes great care to personally select the liquor shops which sell his sake. (Yamanari) Sake, especially namazake and ginjo and daiginjo sakes, need to be kept cold to prevent them from spoiling. Sake deteriorates quickly when exposed to heat, light amd vibrations. Sake should not be stored for more than three months unless the storage is good. It is important to buy sake from liquor shops where the shop owners care for them properly. If Tanbasan is sold in a liquor store, it is sure that the conditions are optimum since Tsuyaki supervises the selection very carefully. There is a good place to taste Tanbasan in a very authentic Japanese setting. That is in Kannai Oasis near Kannai Station. This area is apparently very popular with the local government workers who stop there after work. Kannai Oasis is a two block walk from the station located in the Kannai Daiichi Building. At the sign for Kannai Oasis, go down the stairs and turn left. The first Izakaya on your left is is "Kushi-tei" which is the only izakaya that the authors knows which serves more than one type of Kanagawa sake. It is best to make a reservation. The "sakanna" is delicious, and they have three Kanagawa sakes: Tanbasan from Kawanishi; Shirizasa Tsusumi from Kannai Shuzo; and Izumibashi.
Kikkawa Shuzo is located in Isehara City and their products are mostly sold at local liquor shops there. The representative brand is Kiku-yuu which means Chrysanthemum Bravery. The President is Kikkawa, Masao; and the toji is Iwai, Masatoshi from Niigata Prefecture. Their three main brands are named after places: Ohyama-Homare; Sagami-Homare; and Tama-Homare. The main characteristic of this brewery is that they like things to be homemade. There are many steps involved in the production of the malt for making fine ginjo sake; but at Kikkawa, they use the old-fashioned process on all of their sakes. Usually there are 4 people who work at a brewery, but at Kikkawa it takes eight people because of the laborious methods used. (Yamanari) Of course, the problem is that it makes the sake cost more, so they try to overcome this problem by selling directly to liquor shops rather than to a distributor. The president says that he doesn't wish to cheapen the sake to do more sales. The most notable local attraction in Isehara is Mt. Ohyama and Oyama Afuri Shrine. On the way to the shrine there are many stalls and restaurants which sell Ohyama Homare. And in the restaurants there is another local delicacy, homemade tofu made with mountain water. It is also possible to taste okara which is the solid material left after the tofu is made. It has a mild taste and is heavy. In a restaurant there, the author tasted fried okara, which tasted something like a homemade doughnut. Most kura have a strong affiliation with a shrine. In November there is usually a ceremony to pray for the completion of an excellent quality sake at San-no-Miya Hibita Shrine. In April of every year there is a very famous festival at this shrine which is one of the main attractions in Isehara. It has a history of a thousand years. In the spring of each year, Kikkawa Shuzo donates sake to both San-no-Miya Hibita Shrine and Ohyama Afuri Shrine. In May of every year there is a festival at Ohyama Shrine to dedicate the new sake from the Kanto region. This is a lovely event, and is a good way to view the beautiful scenery around Mt. Ohyama without actually climbing it. When the author went to this festival, there were about six sakes from Kanagawa there, as well as some from other prefectures in the Kanto plain. Participants could taste as many of them as they wanted. One of the nicest things about this sake festival is that there were not many people there. The author may be prejudiced, but she thinks the Kanagawa sakes were the best.
Kannai Shuzo is located near Hadano Station. From there, take a bus for Shibusawa Station via Sakura-dote. Get off at Bunka Kaikan. The representative sake, "Shirasasa Tsuzumi," means "drum." (Already noted) The name Shirasasa is conected with Shirasa Inari, a Shinto god who is said to help with prosperity and a good harvest. The sixth president is Sanno, Hideyuki who says he wishes to make a high-quality, natural product. The toji, Uchiyama, Tadashi comes every year with four or five of his men from Eichigo Prefecture in northern Japan. He has 30 years of experience. It is possible to take a tour of the facility if a reservation is made in advance. When the author took this tour with her Japanese friends, the toji himself gave the tour. He says at least 10 years of experience are necessary to become a good toji, and each year he challenges himself to make a better product. He said that during the entire sake making process, the maltmaking needs the most attention; good sake cannot be made if the germination is not done slowly. At Kannai, the music of Mozart is played during the malt making process. Noise negatively affects the growth of the mold. It makes sake that tastes bad, but the music has a positive effect on living organisms. The music of Mozart is a family favorite, and each fall in November there is a Mozart concert at Kannai Shuzo. Last year, professional vocalists performed excerpts from the Marriage of Figaro and Don Giovanni. The concert was preceeded by a talk by the toji and featured sake tasting afterward. In honor of their love for Mozart, Kannai makes four sakes in what they call the Mozart series. (See Statistics Sheet) They say that "when you drink it you hear a Mozart melody." They have recently developed "Fukanasake," a new product to help capture the women's market which was served at last year's Mozart concert. It is a dry, mild sake with a low alcohol content. The brewers are also very proud of the label which is very modern looking. It sort of announces the newness of the product. Sake from Kannai Shuzo can be purchased in Yokohama at Sogo Department Store as well as at other small shops in Yokohama, and Kawasaki City. It is served in the Oiso Prince Hotel, Shin Yokohama Prince Hotel, and Hakone Gora Ashami Hotel. Their sake is served at the famous Tabako Matsuri in Hadano. When visiting Kannai Shuzo, it is easy to take the Odakyu Line back two stops to Tsurumaki Station. There within a very short walking distance is Jinya, a well-know Japanese Ryokan. It became famous in the Edo era as a stopping point along the Tokkaido highway. This ryokan is the gourment's delight, and it serves Kannai Shuzo sake. The grounds are beautiful indicating that this is a very special place. A great gong is sounded every time a new party enters the ryokan. There are both indoor and outdoor baths which rotate between the men and the women. Jinya is a quintessential Japanese experience. Japanese cuisine which is seasonally oriented is served in the room. One of the seasonal specialties is wild boar soup. Of course there is also delicious yodofu made with water from the Tanazawa mountains. The restaurant on the grounds serves people other than hotel guests, and it is not necessary to have a reservation. When the author visited Jinya it was December, and there was a mochi pounding in the restaurant. Some of the guests took turns pounding the mochi which was made into little round balls called "dango." But here at Jinya they were coated with crushed Hadano peanuts, the specialty of the area. Peanuts replaced tobaco as the most famous locally grown product. Try to combine a visit to Kannai Shuzo with a visit to Jinya. It is an experience you will not soon forget. Most Recent Developments 1. A New Club Mr. Iida, who is the President of the Association, talked about good sake, hors d'oevres and good companions. Mr. Yamane, the General Director of the YMCA explained that the purpose was to appreciate Kanagawa's culture through sake and to develop the local industry. This association plans to publish a newsletter, hold sake-tasting events, and go sightseeing at breweries. At the first event they tasted: "Irodori Izumibashi," "Izumibashi," "Hallelujah," "Shoko," "Tanzawasan," and "Tomanohomare" This organization is open to anyone for a yearly fee of 2,000 yen, excluding event fees. Anyone who wishes to join should contact the Yokohama YMCA at 045-662-3721. 2. A New Sake Party 3. The National Sake Center On the first floor is literature about the sake industry in all of the different prefectures of Japan, and it is possible to taste sake from each of the prefectures for only Y500/glass. On the second floor is a library of books, mostly in Japanese, but also some in English, as well as a display of beautiful labels. Visitors receive a free book about sake to take home with them. But the greatest challenge of all is the sake rating test. There are two sets of five types of sake to be rated from 1 to 5. The author thinks this test is mostly a joke, because it was hard to tell the difference in tiny amounts in a bull's eye cup. Besides, it was very hot that day, so she wondered if they had spoiled. Her rating was: "needs improvement." 4. On the Internet Conclusion Sake tasting and sake tasting events can be a lot of fun, but there is
no excuse for ignorance about it. All sake is not alike, so it is important
to know what is being tasted and where it comes from. The recent trend
is to taste the sake, not simply to get drunk on it. And the trend is
to drink it cold. Only cheap sake needs to be heated. With a little imagination,
sake can be served with any cuisine. So be sure to become a connoisseur
and develop your own personal sense of taste. REFERENCES Books Frost, G. and Gauntner, John. Sake Pure & Simple. Berkely, California: Stone Bridge Press, 1999. Gauntner, John. The Sake Handbook. Tokyo and Boston: Charles E. Tuttle, 1997. Harper, Phillip. The Insider's Guide to Sake. Tokyo and New York: Kodansha International. 1998. Kondo, Hiroshi. The Book of Sake: Tokyo and New York: Kodanshia International, 1996. Pompian, Susan. Tokyo for Free. Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1998. Yamanari, Kenji. Kanagawa no Sake. Yokohama: Kanagawa Shinbunsha. 1998. (in Japanese) Web Sites Izumibashi Sake Resource Center Sake World Sake World email Newsletter, August 2000. Issue 12. |